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DALYAN AND
CAUNUS
Dalyan is a small and lovely resort town located on the left bank
of the Dalyan River (Dalyan Çayi), a stream that
meanders through the reeds from Köyçeyiz Lake
down to the sea. The lake narrows into a channel, flowing into the
Dalyan river which empties into the sea at Iztuzu beach,
one of Turkey's most spectacular beaches. This beach has been made
a protected area as the breeding-ground of the Caretta Caretta
which are a species of sea turtles. The best way to enjoy the
whole site is to take a pleasant boat ride from Dalyan down to the
sea (or the other way round for those on a cruise). On the right
bank of the river stands the ancient city of Caunus
with Hellenistic fortifications, beautiful rock-cut
Lycian tombs, a well preserved theatre and some other minor ruins.
According to Ovid’s “Metamorphoses”, the story of the founding of
Caunus goes as follows: Miletus, the son of Phoebus (Apollo) and
founder of the city of Miletus, loved the nymph Cyanee, the
daughter of the river god Meander, who gave birth to the twins
Byblis and Caunus noted for their beauty. Byblis fell incestuously
in love with her brother Caunus and declared her love to him in a
letter. Caunus, horrified, rejected her. Fleeing his sister, he
came to this part of Caria and founded the city of Caunus. As for
Byblis, she pursued him as he fled her but could not find him. She
was weeping so much and was about to die from grief and exhaustion
when she was turned by nymphs into a fountain.
Caunus was a wealthy city but gained an unhealthy reputation
because the locals contracted malaria which was rife due to the
proliferation of mosquitoes. The decline of Caunus, which was once
upon the sea, was caused by the progressive silting up of its
harbour which made it dangerous for ships. The population
gradually reverted to village life and fishing as it has remained
to the present day. The Turkish word “Dalyan” means “fishery”. The
river is studded with wooden structures stretching accross it, to
trap the grey mullets as they return to the sea after spawning in
the fresh water of Lake Köyçeyiz.
Dalyan and Köycegiz Lake are also reputed for their therapeutic
mud baths and hot sulphur pools
used since Hellenistic times and believed to cure rheumatism,
skin, liver, spleen and bowel complaints, as well as being
beneficial for nervous and digestive disorders. It also cleanses
and beautifies skin.
The Sultanye Thermal Baths:
The Sultaniye Thermal Baths are to the Southwest of Köycegiz lake.
The water here at 40 Celsius is second to none. The water at these
baths was first used in Caunon times, then by the Byzantines, who
rebuilt the accommodations. The ruins of the buildings from the
period are submerged beneath the waters of the lake. It is not
unusual to see the Turkish elderly make pilgrimages to the baths
due to the water’s curative properties in case of neuralgia,
rheumatism and skin disorders of the liver, spleen and bowels.
The Mud Baths: "Beauty Mud"
which not only cleanses and tones the skin but is said to remedy
rheumatism and has anti-ageing properties. After allowing the mud
to dry, it can be removed in a natural clear water sulphur pool,
at temperatures of around 40 Celsius. This leaves you refreshed
and relaxed.
Caunos: The ancient city of
Caunos stands midway along the channel facing Dalyan. Settlement
here is believed to date from 3000 BC by Caunos, the son of
Miletos and it later grew into a major port on the border between
Lycia and Caria. Sprawling over a broad sloping site overlooking
the sea and the delta, the principal monuments to be seen in
Caunos are the Acropolis surrounded by city walls, a theatre, four
temples, an agora, stoa, nymphain, baths, palestra, churches and a
cistern.
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