INFO
ABOUT
BAYS
As
last year, the plan this year is to take the
boat where the guests wish it to be taken.
Within practical limits, of course. Like
departure airport and next rendezvous. Airports
and rendezvous locations aside, we would be
prepared to take the boat as far north as
Kusadasi and Samos through end-June and as far
west as Bodrum and Nisiros thereafter. On the
other extreme we would be prepared to go as far
east as Antalya. Within these extremes, and
guest preferences permitting, we would encourage
short-termers to restrict their itineraries to
Turkey's Gulf of Fethiye, and long-termers to
opt for one of three itineraries we will
describe as Gulf Southeast, Gulf Northwest, and
Aegean Special, as it is our experience that
attempting to do more entails long passages.
Gulf of Fethiye The Gulf of Fethiye is
surrounded by lower slopes of the Taurus
Mountains, pine-clad to the water's edge, and
its crystal-clear water invites swimmers and
snorkelers. It is an area of flat-water sailing
easy on those not accustomed to open sea, and is
rimmed with innumerable coves and anchorages.
Gocek The Club Marina at Gocek is the scenic
ultimate in yacht marinas and the place the TGE
calls home. It is situated up against pined
slopes across the bay from Gocek Town and is
reached by regular ferry service. Both the
marina and Gocek Town are 30 minutes by road
from Dalaman International Airport. Gocek Town
itself has a unique charm as a working village
and yacht rendezvous. From Gocek we like to take
our guests by car up into the foothills of the
Taurus Mountains to lunch on fresh trout with
our feet cooling in fresh-water streams. In
Gocek Town, and because we live there half the
year, we are able to introduce our guests to
reputable carpet, craft-art, and other
merchants.
Tomp Bay Six miles from Gocek, Tomb Bay is
delightful for dining, swimming, or boat
drive-by below Carian and Lycian rock tombs (porticoed
temple tombs). The ancient Lycian city of Crya
is still evident among the olive trees and
oleander. Lycians, Herodotus noted, were Cretans
driven from Crete by Minos of Knossos. Carians,
he believed, were native to Asia Minor.
Deep Bay One mile from Tomb Bay. Pine trees and
crystal-clear water. Swimming, snorkeling, and
kayaking. Enough said except that Yuksel, the
local restaurateur, is not only a fine cook but
offers an after-dinner campfire camaraderie that
cannot be duplicated. Neither can be his
breakfast the following morning. Year after year
our guests describe Deep Bay as their favorite
stop.
Cleopatra's Bay Two miles from Deep Bay. Another
exquisite setting with thick pine right down to
the water's edge. Monastery ruins half submerged
attract the curious. Also called Ruin Bay, a
45-minute hike takes you to ancient Lydae. Off
the beaten path and rarely visited, Lydae
features sarcophagi, temple walls, cisterns,
Corinthian columns and inscribed tablets from
the Roman and Byzantine periods. Cleopatra, by
the way, was here twice, once with Julius Caesar
and once with Marc Antony. He, Antony, was en
route to Actium. She, Cleopatra, came for the
scenery. Or whatever. Recep, the restaurateur,
bends any bendable ear while pouring cold beer
or hot tea.
Gemiler Island 15 miles from Cleopatra's Bay.
Once home to Lycian and Byzantine pirates, the
remains of an entire village are there to be
explored, from pirate-ship parking to covered
passage to temple and basilica. A wonderful
place to swim and snorkel, and an equally
wonderful place to take in a hilltop sunset with
a bottle of wine. Ali, the local restaurateur,
entertains with campfire and song.
Olu Deniz Two miles from Gemiler, Olu Deniz is
the most photographed and picture-postcarded of
any beach in the Eastern Mediterranean. Photos
are best taken during a 30-minute paraglide down
from Baba Dag (Father Mountain). Meaning Dead
Sea, the lagoon at Olu Deniz in 67 BC harbored
the Roman galleys of Pompey the Great, there to
eject Lycian pirates from Gemiler.
Butterfly Valley Two miles from Olu Deniz and
inaccessible except by sea, this striking spot
is backed by almost sheer mountain from which
water falls. Even the beach is bounded left and
right by vertical rock promoting a unique
privacy.
Fethiye 16 miles from Butterfly Valley, Fethiye
is ancient Telmessos and site of the finest rock
tombs in Lycia, some featuring Ionic porticoes.
There is also a hilltop fortress built by the
Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem and a Roman
theater under excavation. The nearby ghost-town
of Kaya was emptied by the Turkish-Greek
population swap of 1923. Covered markets and
lots of other shopping. An excellent restaurant
offering a splendid hors d'oeuvre of artichoke
heart and tuna. And a truly wonderful sail in
and out of port.
Gulf Southeast Gulf Southeast refers both to the
aforementioned coves and ports of call as well
as to destinations southeast as far as Kekova
Roads.
Kalkan 30 miles from Gemiler, Kalkan is
sun-washed, quaint, and hub for taxis to ancient
Letoom, Patara, and Xanthos, the latter
featuring a monument to Harpies and Nereids,
some of whom may be encountered at sea en route.
Good silver shopping. An excellent restaurant. A
picnic lunch on Patara beach can also be
memorable, not because Patara was the port from
which forty Lycian triremes under Xerxes sailed
to an unfortunate end at Salamis in 480 BC, but
because the sea at Patara is such an
extraordinary color.
Kas 15 miles from Kalkan, Kas is cosmopolitan or
nearly so, with off-beats and sophisticates
frequenting chic shops and cafes. All-night
tavernas trumpet music you thought you'd
forgotten. The finest French restaurant east of
Paris, rack of lamb the specialty. Sarcophagi in
the middle of the principal shopping street.
Roman theater.
Kale 16 miles from Kas, ancient Sinema remains
to be seen both under clear water (with mask or
from glass-bottom boat) and on shore where a
medieval Ottoman fortress has been added to
crown the hill on which Kale sits. Spectacular
photographs of Kekova Roads from the fortress.
Memorable dining at Ibrahim's seafood restaurant
in the neighboring village of Ucagiz.
Myra Actually, the boat anchors at
Gokkaya (three miles from Ucagiz) from which we
water-taxi and road-taxi to Myra, which was the
bishopric of Saint Nicholas before he relocated
to Gemiler. Of the several Saints Nicholas, this
one is the patron of sailors and thieves,
sometimes called Santa Claus. Myra's most
striking feature, however, is not his basilica
but rather the conjunction of Lycian and Roman
architecture.
Kastellorizon 17 miles from Gokkaya.
Idyllic Greek island locale for 1991's Academy
Award (best foreign film) winning Mediterraneo (Castelrosso
at the time depicted, the island was Italian
from 1912 to 1943, as were the rest of the
Dodecanese). Taverna dining in the Greek flavor.
And no Immigration or Customs.
Gulf Northwest Gulf Northwest refers both to the
ports of call listed under Gulf of Fethiye and
to those that follow.
Mandraki, Rhodes If you believe the
Colossus once straddled this harbor entrance 45
miles from Fethiye, you'll believe we won't have
to triple park. This is the port from which
Hospitaler knights sallied forth in fast galleys
to ravage infidel shipping and coastal towns,
until 1522 when the infidels threw them out. The
Hospitaler castle remains, however, and is a
major attraction, as is the old town surrounding
it. A variety of cuisine which changes from year
to year as the restaurateurs retire to Long
Island and Philadelphia. Port of Entry.
Datca 11 miles from Simi Town, Datca is
an AM Port of Entry en route to Knidos. In fact,
it was Knidos before Knidos moved to the
Triopian cliffs. A commercial and resort town
where rug merchants are somewhat reasonable if
still cunning.
Knidos Sounds Greek (Spartan, according
to Herodotus) but is Turkish, a clear-water cove
at the tip of the Doric Peninsula 20 miles from
Datca. Triopian cliffs flush in rosemary and
myrtle. Ruins at the water's edge. See Temple of
Aphrodite (imagination required) once housing
Praxitele's first nude. Great swimming. Some of
the finest dining in Turkey nearby.
Keci Buku 39 miles from Knidos (downwind)
and fjord-like, Keci Buku is one of the prettier
anchorages in Turkey. Good swimming and
exploring, including the ruins of Bybassos, a
part of ancient Caria. The Carians, it may be
noted, were allies of the Trojans, and while
Homer said they were barbarous of speech, it had
nothing to do with their hospitality.
Loryma A Rhodian outpost 20 miles from
Keci Buku, the fortress here dates from the 3rd
century BC. The anchorage a century earlier
harbored the Persian fleet of Conon the Athenian
while it prepared to end Sparta's sea supremacy
in a battle fought off Datca
Marmaris
Ancient Physcus 27 miles east of Loryma. Bazaar
town full of crafty rug merchants, beach
tourists, and waterfront restaurants. The
world's greatest doner kebap. Yacht-voyeurism,
like Donald's "Marla" and Ted Koppel's
Gibraltar-flag ketch, all 120-feet of it. In 480
BC, however, voyeurs watched Artemisia the Elder
outfit 50 galleys for the Persian Xerxes, each
about 128' in length and propelled by 170 Carian
oarsmen.
Ekincik 20 miles east of Marmaris,
Ekincik is like, well, a mountain lake plopped
down with its own pine trees against the red
buttes of Sedona, Arizona. And does it have a
restaurant! Turkish meze (hors d'oeuvres) and
fresh seafood. River boat to ancient Caunos. You
can read about Caunos in Herodotus's History,
and enough of it remains to get the picture.
Dramatic rock tombs further up river near Dalyan
and its fresh-water lake.
Aegean Special This itinerary is limited
to April, May and June as the Meltem begins to
blow in July making for a short and choppy sea.
Unpleasant heading north, to say the least.
Bodrum Nee Halikarnassus and birthplace
of Herodotus, this town is striking from the sea
and interesting once ashore. The Hospitaler
castle is well preserved/restored, the bazaar
has more variety than that of Marmaris, and
there is a broad selection of good restaurants.
Site of Seven Wonders tomb (c353 BC) of King
Mausolus of Caria and port in which his wife,
Artemisia the Younger, trapped the Rhodian fleet
in 352 BC.
Kos 11 miles from Bodrum. Temple of
Asclepion (mostly memory), walls of another
Hospitaler fortress, museum of artifacts saved
from the mortar of neo-Greek construction, plane
trees, and myths about native-son Hippocrates.
Port of Exit best seen at this time of year
behind hibiscus and rose laurel.
Port San Giorgio, Nisis Gaidharos A
36-mile beat north from Kos. Dine in a
fisherman's hamlet at water's edge (or hike
hundreds of feet straight up).
Kusadasi 20 miles from Pythagorion,
Kusadasi is 12 miles south of Ephesus, the
biggest of all digs. While Ephesus dates from
the 11th century BC, there is also a
well-preserved Ottoman fortress nearby. Kusadasi
itself has a fantastic bazaar, fine seafood
restaurants, and subtle rug merchants. Port of
Entry.
Skrophes Bay A 50-mile spinnaker run from
Kusadasi, this is a boardwalk town with a
carnival atmosphere, including costumed vendors
serving up ice cream in an elaborate ceremony.
Three miles by taxi from ancient Didyma and its
unfinished but substantial Temple of Apollo, 15
miles from ancient Miletus and its 15,000-seat
Greco-Roman theater. And a Byzantine castle on
the hill above. Good cuisine, great ice cream,
and enterprising rug merchants.
Gumusluk 19 miles south of Skrophes Bay,
Gumusluk is within walking distance of "new"
Myndos, a Carian town founded by Mausolus in the
4th century BC. The harbor here sheltered an
Egyptian fleet throughout the following century,
and, in 44 BC, proved a brief haven for the
ships of Gaius Cassius Longinus, one of Julius
Caesar's assassins. "Old" Myndos, a Lelegian
town, is two miles to the SE. Gumusluk itself is
whitewash and bougainvillea and rustic dining.
Cagey rug merchants abound.
Patmos A short 10-mile sail from Arki, Patmos is
the (now) sacred island to which St. John the
Divine was banished from Ephesus by the Emperor
Domitian in AD 95, and on which he dictated the
Apocalypse. From the monastery 500' up
surrounded by the old town there are striking
views of the island and the northern Dodecanese.
Pharmakousa 22 miles from Leros, this is
the island on which Julius Caesar was detained
by pirates when returning to Rome from Bithynia
(NW Turkey). Perhaps because of Caesar's
subsequent wrath, the inhabitants of Pharmakousa
are limited in number and much more hospitable
than their forebears.